Pongala: for the Devi, by the devis

Looks like if I’m not travelling, I have nothing to write about πŸ˜€

Well, not entirely true. I did write a love letter, for CB‘s latest contest “love is in the air”. There were two parts in the contest: on was to create badges, and the other, to write a love letter. Well, halfway through the design, I realised the deadline had passed πŸ˜€ so i gave up. Which meant I also gave up on the yet-to-begin love letter, till CB extended the deadline. (Damn! There was no excuse i could give after that :D)

Today is Pongala, and I thought I might write about how we celebrated it.

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For the uninitiated, Pongala is a religious festival celebrated by Hindu women. ‘Pongala‘ means ‘to boil over’ — and on this day, women devotees get together for the ritualistic offering of payasam: a porridge made of rice, sweet brown molasses (or sugar), grated coconut, nuts and raisins.

It’s celebrated across a few temples in South India, but it’s been made famous by the Attukal Temple at Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala. It’s the one time when the sleepy Thiruvananthapuram city witnesses a night that’s longer than the day πŸ˜‰ Women from all over South India (I guess there are people from all over the country now) gather in the city, near or in the temple premises, stocked with the ingredients, round earthen pots, bricks and tiber from the coconut trees.

On a day or two prior to the festival:
Women travel to the city and set up temporary homes on the roadsides. They book their spots on the roads, lanes, footpaths and shop fronts in a radius of several kilometres around the temple (fighting for the one nearer to the temple). The bus stands and the railways station are NOT the place to be, if you’re not a devout devotee, and especially of you’re a member of the male gender πŸ˜‰

The roads are filled with vehicles bursting with their occupancy. The city dwellers don their hospitality hats and wait their turns to help the devotees. They let their courtyards be used as tent spots, let the devotees use their precious toilets, offer excellent home-cooked suppers and comfort elements — for they consider the very act of a hospitality a means to please the Goddess!

A visit to the temple is mandatory on the previous day; so is a fasting. If you are a man, you will not be allowed anywhere near the areas where the festival is in progressβ€”unless you’re a badge-donning member of the temple volunteer group or the police force.

On the Pongala day:
All the arteries of this tiny townβ€”less than a hundred and fifty square kilometres of land areaβ€”becomes look-alike rows of make-shift stoves ready to be lit. No vehicles ply within the city; the police and volunteers stop them at the outskirts. Volunteers set up free food-and-lemonade stalls at every 500 meters!

Security is the biggest concern of the government on the dayβ€”what combo could be worse than crowds of women and fire!? Over 5000 police men and 500 women constables plus more senior officials. Volunteer organisations work around the clock to provide medical aid, food, water and help. And the day experiences an uncanny pleasant demeanor by all people, and there is no bossing round, no bad attitudes, no negativity.

A cannon sound reverberates when the priest lights the hearth within the temple. The flame is quickly passed from the sacred hearth to others, and in an unbelievable and superb gesture of community participation, over a million hearths burn up class, creed and sects on this day, as the Devi replaces everything in their hearts with devotion and prayers.

The city is then enveloped in a cloudy cloak.

While some struggle to light a hearth and handle the smoke, sun and the streaming eyes, there are others who, having participated for many years, handle up to a 101 hearths: an auspicious number for everything divine. Another cannon announces the “boiling over” at the temple, and then the wait begins — for the temple representative priests to sprinkle the offering with scared water, as a sign of the Goddess’ blessing. Once the holy water is sprinkled on each one’s earth, they’re ready to head home.

Women also use this opportunity to exchange addresses and goodies. Traffic begin its craziness and vehicles make a slow-moving bee-line to various parts of the city and out of it.

Over 2 million burning hearths and twenty square kilometres of land! Fire, gender security, pollution, traffic problems, the concerns are numerous. But they’re all overcome and the pongala continues to be a success year after year.

After the festival:
The city is a mess after the festival: miles of blackened bricks, firewood and earthenware. You may not have seen where the food-and-lemonde stalls were, but the left over cups and the paper plates will tell a tale. And before one knows it, its time for the sanitation workers to jump in for the rescue of the roads. By late night, the city is back to what it was two days back πŸ˜‰

A ceremonial rain (which has marked its presence every single year) washes down the pollution and the smoke: Nature’s certification of a festival well-celebrated.

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Of the pongala tales I’ve heard, the one bit that has been vivid is that it used to be a festival for the poor. Apparently, in the olden days, the house helps were the ones who used to participate in the festival. It was considered a festival / a day off for them, to revel in the Goddess’s blessings and attention. But over the years, as the festival became more popular. it became a matter of ‘participation’, I guess. And today, like everything else, we have a pongala that’s commercialised. Media channels interview ‘stars’ who ‘share space with the non-stars, the lesser mortals*rolling eyes*! It’s no longer a day that allows the “poor” to have a dedicated day with the Devi. Sigh!

Anyway, today being pongala, Amma was busy and ‘not-on-kitchen-duty’. Though initially she had been all sad she wasn’t at Thiruvananthapuram to be a part of it, when we decided “God’s everywhere” and she could easily “boil over” up on our terrace, Amma was thrilled πŸ˜€ Well, heaven was just a little further up than three stories high πŸ˜‰

Amma's little terrace-temple πŸ˜‰ and the pongala payasam in the making πŸ™‚ Pic courtesy: my brother

After a long time, I was put on kitchen duty for the day πŸ˜€ But of course, I woke up late, and Amma had to take care of breakfast. Boy, was she pissed!

After all the scoldings and everything for ‘almost’ spoiling her day, I went to the kitchen πŸ˜€ And while she sat out in the hot sun, lit a fire and made the pongala payasam, I stayed back in the cool kitchen and made Mushroom Biriyani for lunch πŸ˜‰

The Mushroom Biriyani I made and we binged on πŸ˜‰

Pumbaa binged on it too πŸ˜€ He wagged his tail, licked me and (almost) said “Pumbaastic lunch that was!” πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€

Took the recipe from Nag’s Edible Garden and added my own 2 cents (i tnd to do tht all the time; mostly, the result is yumm, but i’ve had my share of yucks too) πŸ˜€

Personally, I’ve never quite liked this festival — only because pongala, as far as i can remember always constituted an off-work day for Amma: but she’d be out the entire day and would come back in the evening tanned, tired and tyrannic πŸ˜€ Well, she had a migraine problem and over 5 minutes in the sun could give her a headache…so imagine a whole day out there in the heat, smoke and pollution. Pongala evenings were always of payasam, and “be quiet, i have a headache” and us tiptoeing around to give Amma a quiet time. No, not a good, ‘fun’ festival πŸ˜€ And a sun-hater myself, I’ve NEVER been out there for a single pongala!

The only good part was the holiday at school and college — but again, since the traffic comes to a stand still the entire day, the ‘holiday’ always went for a waste and we were all stuck at home. I really don’t think such things should be imposed on the entire population. What of the people who do not participate, the ones who do not believe in it, the ones who might have an emergency? life cannot come to a standstill just for the sake of a celebration 😦

Anyways, after a rather long time, I enjoyed this year’s ‘pongala‘ — one that was minus the crowds, minus the pollution, minus the smoke, minus the heat, minus an Amma who comes back home in the evening with a bad headache and a badder mood πŸ˜‰

The payasam was extra tasty this time! πŸ™‚

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39 thoughts on “Pongala: for the Devi, by the devis

  1. That Biryani looks soooper yum πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€
    Wow! love the way so many people get together to celebrate and cook a meal on the festive day πŸ˜›
    Am so glad you finally took part in the contest πŸ˜› πŸ˜›

  2. everything is ok, but I simply hate hate hate it when people block the roads and create irritating traffic in the name of god and religion !!!! yes, experience speaks !! (where’s the smiley for anger and hatred, anyone?)

  3. I will prefer to comment on the 3 images only –
    First – Looks scary 😦
    Second – Nicely clicked with the food being out-focused for God πŸ˜‰
    Third – Makes me hungry and nostalgic about my hometown’s biryani 😦

  4. I don’t like mushrooms but the biryani looks yummmmm πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€
    The pic of crowds looks as if they have gathered for kumbh ka meela…. πŸ˜€
    Pumba eats veg food too???
    Finally you participated in the contest… good….:)

    • I love mushrooms πŸ˜€ and i love biriyani. so it was a smashing combo πŸ˜‰
      yes…its scarier than this!
      he eats everything. his favs apart from the obvious non-veg includes: tender coconut and normal coconut water, green gram curry, aviyal–the typical kerala mix-veg curry, tea, fried rice…rofl! anything we give him, he loves. But when it comes to bread, he’s very particular. he eats only pure and soft “bakery bread” πŸ˜€

      yes, i did! you did too, eh? πŸ˜‰

  5. Man, u actually made mushroom biryani?…whoa ! Iam so proud of u…pls share the recipe okies πŸ˜› the second pic is amazingly beautiful, u’ve realy become a pro gurl, awesome !!! And hats off to amma for making pongala payasam, tht too right here in this jungle calld bangalore πŸ™‚ whoeva gave her tht idea also desrves a pat on the back..:) πŸ™‚

    Btw, u have any plans next year to go for pongala?…After reading this, I know I shouldn’t ask this question…:P but just in case…:) My amma wanted me to go someday to tvm during pongala to make this payasam πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ I donno when I’ll fulfill her wish, but If i hav company, I might….hence asked πŸ™‚ Lemme know…:P πŸ˜›

    Anyways this post was a religious,refreshing n yummy break from the 5 part travelogue πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ Loved reading πŸ™‚

    • Yes, woman, i did! πŸ˜€ i’ve made all sortsa biriyanis πŸ˜€ its my fav food πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€
      well, tht pic my bro took. njaan “raavile eneettu kulikkaathathu kondu” terrace-ilekku entry illaayirunnu πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€ oh it was her idea πŸ˜‰

      no way! i’m never gonna celebrate it! i dont promote polution or traffic blocks that make life a pain for others! πŸ˜€

      thanks girl πŸ™‚

  6. My mother has never celebrated that festival…. she’s one of those sun-haters like me! πŸ˜›

    But I love the way you’ve captured the esssence of the entire festival through your post πŸ™‚ nice!

  7. @ priya..its really nice to hear that u celebrated pongala in the limitations of Banglore City…
    Great priya..amma might have suffered on that day..but still she made another memorable day for u πŸ™‚
    Itz really nice to be with parents rght?

    By the way ur biriyani looks soo good.i can’t believe thatz made by u…but u didnt mention in the post how it tasted…hope it tasted soo yummy… πŸ˜‰

  8. Hehehe…amma celebrated; i just ate the payasam.
    yea, she did πŸ˜€ its great to be with parents πŸ˜‰

    edi didnt you read what pumbaa said after he ate it? πŸ˜‰ of course it was yummmm

  9. Haaa now thts a first hand experience of a fest I only heard of… WHn u stuck outside ur hometown nn in this grrr IT world all these fests suddenly seem so alluring huh πŸ˜€

    Tht apart ur mushroom biryani seem so so so so yummmmmmmmm… u jus made me xtra hungry lady πŸ™‚

    • Welcome to AlphabetWorld! πŸ™‚
      No ways! If there are fests I’ve not celebrated while IN my hometown, I’ll just never celebrate them πŸ˜‰ Remember? While Amma was up on the terrace, I was making biriyani in the cool kitchen πŸ˜€

      It was yummmmm too πŸ˜‰

  10. The biriyani is yummilicious! No wonder pumbaa also drooled over it!
    This seems to be a new celebrtion for me..I’ve heard people doing this on the jan month!
    The first pic clarifies the crowd and your narration Priya! Must be a herculious task to clean away all these!!

    • Hehehe…it was, it was! πŸ˜€
      Well, it’s usually end-of-jan, early or mid-feb and all…keeps changing like most other hindu fests πŸ˜‰
      Must definitely be! I’ve never liked it much πŸ˜€ *Sorry, Goddess!*

  11. Oh…the crowd….the sun….its too much na ???? I love the quiet celebration on ur terrace. πŸ™‚ And I love the mushroom briyani too….. πŸ˜› πŸ˜›

    Thanks for the info…never knew of this festival before. πŸ™‚

  12. Pingback: My first ever ‘Karwa Chauth’ | AlphabetWorld!

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